Yosemite IV: Glacier Point

Looking southwest into Tenaya Canyon
with Yosemite Valley in the distance.

I took a quick weekend trip to Yosemite this month. The waterfalls were full; the new foliage on hardwood trees was bursting forth like lime green jewels. There were two new destinations on this trip for me: a hike into Yosemite wilderness on the northwest wall of Tenaya Canyon and a drive to Glacier Point on the southern rim of Yosemite Valley. Both afforded incredible views of Half Dome, Tenaya Canyon, Yosemite falls, and the other gems lying at the heart of the park.

From atop Glacier Point it was easy to see how crowded and developed Yosemite Valley has become. Meadows, forests and the sinuous Merced River still occupy most of the valley floor, but the roads and clusters of cars are in plain view from above. John Muir described the view as follows: “From Glacier Point you look down 3000 feet over the edge of its sheer face into the meadows and groves and innumerable yellow pine spires, with the meandering river sparkling and spangling through the midst of them. Across the Valley a great telling view is presented of the Royal Arches, North Dome, Indian Canyon, Three Brothers and El Capitan, with the dome-paved basin of Yosemite Creek and Mount Hoffman in the background. To the eastward, the Half Dome close beside you looking higher and more wonderful than ever; southeastward the Starr King, girdled with silver firs, and the spacious garden-like basin of the Illilouette and its deeply sculptured fountain peaks, called ‘The Merced Group’; and beyond all, marshaled along the eastern horizon, the icy summits on the axis of the range and broad swaths of forest growing on ancient moraines, while the Nevada, Vernal and Yosemite Falls are not only full in sight but are distinctly heard as if one were standing beside them in their spray.” – The Yosemite, 1912. 

View from Glacier Point. Tenaya Canyon entering Yosemite Valley in the foreground. Half Dome to the right.

Left: Vernal Falls. Right: Yosemite Falls.

Mill Creek at Big Sur

Macrocystis pyrifera (giant kelp) growing in a shallow pool in the intertidal.

Big Sur is one of my favorite places along the northeastern Pacific coast. Here the Santa Lucia Range presses against the Pacific coast, forming rugged rocky shoreline next to steeply cut valleys filled with redwoods and hillside slopes of chaparral and grassland.  

Much of the area is designated as California State Parks or National Forest (including wilderness) land. Big Sur has the usual California problems of invasive species, but the area has historically endured relatively little development. Tourists stream in along Highway 1 (in seemingly greater volume), particularly from the Monterey Peninsula, but much of the shoreline and coast range is too rugged for heavy human use.

I have a few favorite intertidal locations in Big Sur that I’ve visited intermittently over the years to tidepool, photograph marine life, or just collect seaweeds. Actually, quite a bit of the coastline is relatively inaccessible because of its steep topography, or for other reasons. For this month’s early morning spring tides, I visited Mill Creek on the southern Big Sur coast. Because of the early morning tide, I camped Sunday night at Plaskett Creek, and then Monday morning was lucky to have Mill Creek’s rocky stretch of coastline to myself.

Sea stars at Mill Creek, including Henricia leviuscula (center) and two examples of what may be
Leptasterias, a species complex of 6-armed Pacific coast stars. 

Desmarestia munda, acid (!) "kelp".

Excellent low tides notwithstanding, large swells offshore can keep the low intertidal relatively inaccessible for those wishing to stay relatively dry, but one solution to this is to don a wetsuit, at least up to one’s stomach, and make way into the low intertidal and the deeper intertidal pools. With some decent off-shore waves, this trip benefited from that method and I was able to access the deeper pools and photograph quite a few marine treasures with my underwater camera.

Mill Creek has a good mix of seaweeds (large brown seaweeds, foliose and finely-branched red algae, and some green algal species), seagrass (Phyllospadix) and invertebrates (anemones, seastars, mussels, etc.) – an example of a high diversity, less disturbed stretch of central California coastline. The substrate here is a field of large boulders, a cobble beach, and larger bedrocks with areas of coarse sand. The boulders tend to be rather large and are covered generously with algae and invertebrates.

Small seastars were common this month. Many were the whitish Leptasterias spp. (a six armed star typically a few cm across), but some were also juveniles of larger species. These new recruits perhaps represent local evidence of the reported rebound in sea star populations after the wasting disease phenomenon that led to a crash in west coast sea star populations in the last couple years.

Brightly-colored nudibranchs were also abundant and I spent some time photographing these beautiful animals underwater in the shallow pools. I observed at least 5 to 6 species including Okenia rosacea, which has seemed pretty abundant across the central to northern California coast over the last year. Yellow dorids were the most common on this trip ato Mill Creek. 

Two Mill Creek nudibranchs. Left: Triopha catalinae. Right: Dendrodoris fulva or Doriopsilla albopunctata.

Hermissenda crassicornis on articulated red coralline algae.

References

Behrens DW. 1991. Pacific Coast Nudibranchs. Sea Challengers, Monterey, CA.

Morris RH, Abbott DP, Haderlie EC. 1980. Intertidal Invertebrates of California. Stanford University Press, Standford, CA.