Napali coast

The Kalalau trail traverses the famous northwestern coast of Kaua’i in what I presume is one of the most scenic hiking trails anywhere in the United States. The first two miles are open to day hikers and a backpacking permit is required to venture further. Because of recent flooding however, the whole trail was closed during our visit to the island last fall.

That unfortunate news left just a few other options to see this dramatic coastline. We availed ourselves of two of these: ridge-top hiking trails accessible from Kokee State Park, and offshore views of the coast from the sea on a chartered boat tour.

The Napali Coast reminds me of Big Sur in central California where in both cases steep coastal mountains abruptly meet the gorgeous Pacific Ocean. The mountains of the Napali coast are more deeply sculpted and luminous than Big Sur, but both are examples of breathtaking coastal wilderness.

Napali coast cliffs from offshore.

Spinner dolphins astride the boat near the Napali coast.

Our first views of this area were by charter boat that left early in the morning from the port on the southern side of the island. A very long sandy beach in southwestern Kauai suddenly gives way to the deeply incised ridges and valleys that rise to several thousand feet above the Pacific. A large pod of spinner dolphins milled around the tour boat, swimming near the bow and leaping out of the water.

We pulled closer to shore at several locations along the Napali coast and anchored at one for a chance to snorkel offshore. The site was in about 10 m of water though I swam in towards shore with my two older kids to a shallower area. Water clarity was decent, though I enjoy swimming in pretty shallow areas when possible because they offer more opportunity to see the small biota on the reef. I was about the last person to hop back on the boat, hoping to spend as much time as possible in the water.

Fishes at our snorkeling spot along the Napali coast.

Our other views of the Napali coast were from above. One must actually circle all around the island from the Kalalau trail, head up the steep road that traverses the west side of Waimea Canyon, and access one of the trails that descends down the mountain ridges from the state parks.

View from the Awaawapuhi trail.

We descended down onto one of the ridges via the Awaawapuhi trail. The coast wasn’t visible at all for the first two miles or so but then the trail ran along a narrow saddle with ravines to the north and south. After another mile and a half it ended, and opened up to a spectacular view of the Pacific from a high point with views to the north and south. A rainbow graced the coastline to the north for a few minutes.

I actually ended up taking a second excursion to the Napali Coast offered by a different tour company. My main interest in this second tour was the destination of Lehua Rock off the north shore of Nihau where the group would be allowed to snorkel. However, before we even departed we were told this might not be possible due to rough seas, and a short time later on the water, that disappointing news was confirmed. We viewed the Napali coast again, but did not even snorkel there, rather stopping at a small cove near the harbor. I now have two excellent excuses to visit Kaua’i again – the Kalalau trail and Lehua Rock!

Small coastal waterfall.

Spinner dolphins.

Rainbow at the end of the Awaawapuhi trail.