Scott Creek

There are fantastic low morning tides in the northeastern Pacific this week and I came out to the central California coast very early this morning to survey marine algae at a few sites. Up today was Scott Creek, a location in northern Santa Cruz County that I have visited since my undergraduate days. Scott Creek itself is a small creek that flows under Highway 1 and empties into a sandy beach. To the north of the sandy beach are extensive intertidal sandstone benches with an abundance of sessile invertebrates and algae.

Scott Creek is often very windy, but was less so early this morning. There was a moderate swell and overcast skies that turned into drizzle as the morning progressed. The tidepools revealed nothing of great surprise to me today, but the tide was exceptional and exposed extensive low intertidal beds of the surfgrass Phyllospadix torreyi. Kelps and red seaweeds were in abundance. Bull kelps (Nereocystis luetkeana), one of my favorite seaweeds, were rather common, occurring as scattered individuals or in clusters of more plants. The sporophytes of this species ranged considerably in size, from a very small plant with tiny pneumatocyst and single as-yet-unbifurcated blade, to plants of several meters length with thick stipes and large pneumatocysts.

A sampling of some photos from today:

Bull kelps: larger sporophytes.

Smaller bull kelp sporophytes.

Laminaria sinclairii, another common kelp at Scott Creek. This species grows as
aggregates of stipes and thin blades, typically in intertidal areas scoured by sand.

Callophyllis, an attractive genus of smaller red seaweeds that grow in the low intertidal.

Osmundea (Rhodophyta).

Bryopsis. I found a few of individuals of this small green
seaweed in a tide pool in the mid intertidal. 

Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon is the smallest of Utah’s five national parks, and the last I have been able to visit. It also appears to be the youngest geologically of the parks, at least at the level of its world-famous amphitheater.

Panorama of the Bryce Canyon amphitheater.

Bryce sits at the top of the sedimentary rock strata of southern Utah that is known as the “Grand Staircase”, a series of geologic steps stretching geographically from southern Utah to the Grand Canyon that expose hundreds of millions of years of geologic history. The grand staircase formed by tilting of the ground and erosion of these sedimentary layers. The beauty of the area in part is due to the different colors of the sedimentary layers.

Stratigraphic layers of the Grand Staircase in northern Arizona and southern Utah. Lower image by
National Park Service, public domain.

The amphitheater carved into the eastern side of Bryce Canyon was the impetus for the creation of the park nearly 100 years ago. It is a stunning collection of sandstone spires known as hoodoos. These reddish rocks are relatively young (of Cenozoic age) and are part of the Claron Formation, one of the youngest layers of rock in the park.

The hoodoos are packed tightly together in an arena just below a plateau at the park’s entrance. Their formation is fascinating and complicated, involving steps of crisscrossed ground fractures and differential erosion. Hoodoos are a type of geologic spire, unique because they vary in width from top to bottom due to different rates of erosion of the rock. At Bryce the hoodoos are mostly reddish in color (that indicates oxidized iron in the rock), but there are lovely bands of whitish rock too that decorate the amphitheater.

Hoodoos in the Bryce Canyon Amphitheater.

The other white that decorated the area in early May was snow – which was falling due to precipitation moving through Utah that week and the high elevation of the park. Snow fell on and off the afternoon I arrived at Bryce, sometimes in large flakes. The tops of hoodoos and other surfaces around the amphitheatre were left with a thin dusting of white that added vibrancy to the red rocks.

The Pink Cliffs with a light layer of spring snow.

That night I camped at the southern end of the park at about 8500 ft elevation. I drove to Rainbow Point (9115 ft), and then descended a few hundred feet over a mile and a half along an easy trail to a backpacking campsite at Yovimpa Pass. There was little doubt it was going to be a cold night, but I stayed dry during the hike and doubled up on clothes overnight, keeping me reasonably warm. About midnight I could hear the patter of snow on the tent, and I awoke to an inch or so of snow on the tent and forest floor in the morning.

Snow on my tent and borrowed bear canister in the morning.

Small waterfall and hoodoos at the northern
end of the park.

At such a high elevation, Bryce was well forested, mainly with pines near the amphitheater, and mixed conifer species at higher elevations, including firs. Rainbow Point also had a conifer species I have wanted to see for quite some time: the Bristlecone Pine! These ancient craggy botanical sentinels occurred in a population at the windy edge of the point. The Bristlecone Pine deserves its own post, so I’ll defer writing about it more for now.

Bryce was crowded and touristy (near the roads), but well worth a visit! My backcountry experience stood in contrast to the easily accessible areas of the park – there was not a soul in sight for my overnight trip to Yovimpa Pass – and I think a future backcountry trip through Bryce would be well worth it!

Reference

Morris TH, Ritter SM, Laycock DP. 2012. Geology Unfolded. An Illustrated Guide to the Geology of Utah’s National Parks. BYU Press.

Canyon de Chelly

Sculpted sandstone at Canyon de Chelly
National Monument, Arizona.

Canyon de Chelly, a moderate-sized national monument in the northeast corner of Arizona, was not one of my planned destinations through the Southwest this spring, but it made sense to stop given my route from New Mexico to southern Utah. It was a brief stop, but a treat!

The monument is within the Navajo Nation, a large Native American reservation that stretches from the Grand Canyon to the Four Corners region. The Tribe and the Park Service have joint management responsibility for the monument, and that specific arrangement is manifest in some of the not-so-ordinary arrangements for an NPS site (more on that in a bit).

The monument is accessible from the small town of Chinle on US route 191 and this is essentially where the canyon begins. It deepens to the east, branching into several canyons. There are north and south rim drives but I only had time to observe the canyon from the south rim and make a few stops before heading to southern Utah.

Maps of Canyon de Chelly National Monument. At left: Map of Canyon de Chelly's location in northeast Arizona in the Four Corners region by Shannon1, cropped and arrow added to original map, CC BY-SA 4.0 license. At right: General map of the monument by the National Park Service, public domain.

At the end of the south rim road is a viewpoint of Spider Rock, a picturesque pair of red rock spires that tower hundreds of feet above the canyon floor. At the lookout point there are some wonderful panoramas of the winding canyon and vegetation growing below.

Spider Rock, Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

At only one location in the monument are visitors allowed to walk unguided into the canyon, and that is the short trail to White House. The trail begins on the mesa and then descends pretty steeply into the canyon. Several plots of land are visible on the canyon floor – these farmed areas are privately owned by members of the Navajo Nation.

Once one has descended several hundred feet into the canyon, it is only a short distance more to the White House, which are ancient ruins set in the base of a towering rock cliff. The ruins are similar to those found at Mesa Verde and Bandelier and were constructed centuries before the Navajo people entered the area. In fact, the Canyon has apparently been inhabited by humans for some 5000 years.

Two views of the White House at Canyon de Chelly. The upper level has original remains of Ancient Puebloan dwellings while the structures on the canyon floor below have apparently been restored recently.

Near the White House, several Navajo artisans had set up tables on the dusty canyon floor and were selling jewelry and pottery. This vending was apparently one of the unique arrangements between the Park Service and the Tribe. The other is that guided tours throughout other areas of the canyon are offered by Navajo Nation members. I spoke with one artisan for a bit and purchased a small seed pot from her which was engraved with her name on the bottom and “CDC”, the abbreviation for the monument. She resided in Chinle but her family owned a plot of land in the canyon.    

Some petroglyphs near the White House.

Carlsbad Caverns backcountry

One of the best ways to experience the National Parks is in the backcountry, off the beaten path. There is a time and place for the more curated nature experience, the “park” component of the National Park System, and frankly is the only way of engaging with some of the most iconic geologic features of the parks. At Carlsbad Caverns for example, it seems unlikely one could ever tour the caverns without running into a fair number of people. Similarly, if the grandeur of Yosemite Valley is to be experienced, it usually has to be shared with the crowds that assemble beneath its most iconic features.

Rattlesnake Canyon, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, April 2018.

Yet the backcountry of many national parks offers another treasure: solitude. It is a commodity in increasingly short supply in today’s noisy and hyperactive world, and one that seems to be vastly underappreciated given how few park visitors are willing to get off the paved trails and away from the visitor centers.

During my spring trip through the Southwest I was fortunate to backcountry camp at White Sands and Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico, and later on, at Bryce Canyon in southern Utah. The latter two parks offered an opportunity for a night of complete solitude where I was likely the only person out in the wilderness within miles. At Carlsbad Cavers I hiked into Rattlesnake Canyon from a dirt loop road winds through Chihuahuan Desert habitat west of the entrance to the caverns.

Unopened flowers of ocotillo, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, April 2018.

Texas walnut growing in a dry wash.

The region around Rattlesnake Canyon is a collection of rounded mesas dissected by winding canyons, not unlike the topography I remember from the southern part of Mesa Verde National Park. Ocotillo, prickly pear cacti, and shrubs grew throughout the dry slopes. It wasn’t as colorful as the Sonoran Desert vegetation I observed just days before in Saguaro National Park, but the blooming ocotillo added some vibrant color to the desert scrub.

At the bottom of the valleys were water would be more frequently available (no water was to be seen at all during my visit) small trees – Texas walnut (Juglans microcarpa) grew. One of the more interesting plants to catch my attention, growing throughout the park, was “sotol”, an interesting yet forbidding plant that grows in basal rosettes of pointed leaves like some species of Yucca. The long slender leaves bear sharp hooks which are very adept at catching clothes.

Sotol is formally Dasilirion wheeleri, and a member of the Asparagaceae family. Yucca, which it resembles in overall growth form is actually in a different plant family, the Agavaceae. Interestingly sotol has been used to produce both beer-like and distilled alcoholic drinks. Fibers of the plant were also useful to the Ancient Puebloan people of the Chihuahuan Desert.

Sotol, Carlsbad Caverns NP, April 2018.

Barbary sheep near the entrance to Carlsbad Caverns National Park. This species is non-native
and was introduced into the area from northern Africa.

Carlsbad Caverns

I’ve been in two very spectacular caves before in the western US: Lehman Cave at Great Basin National Park, and Oregon Caves National Monument. Both had ornate features of various shapes such as stalactites and drapery, precipitated inside the caves slowly over countless years. However Carlsbad Caverns, by its palatial size and seemingly endless collection of geological treasures, is in a league of its own. 

The extensive caverns hundreds of feet below the surface are the main attraction of this smaller national park in southern New Mexico. The park rests on the rim of an ancient limestone reef from the Permian Era (251-299 mya) that once encircled a shallow sea in southern New Mexico and northern Texas. (Guadalupe Mountains National Park in northwest Texas is part of this same reef system.) That limestone setting provided the geologic and chemical ingredients for cave formation.

Map of the ancient Permian limestone reef system that includes present day Carlsbad Caverns at left (source) and the natural entrance to the caverns at right.

I took the self-guided tour to view the publicly-accessible caverns, entering at the “natural entrance” and spent over three hours underground, amazed at the size, variety, and sheer number of formations. These formations included stalactites, stalagmites, columns, drapery, and other features, each given different names. 

Stalactites and stalagmites.

The “Big Room” is immense and itself can take well over an hour to view at a leisurely pace. There were several pools underground too and I was particularly drawn to these including one called “Mirror Lake”. Drops of water falling from above kept sending ripples through the pool. Of course naturally all of these features would be hidden to the human eye in complete darkness, but the Park Service carefully uses dim lights throughout the cave system to highlight features.

Features in the Big Room.

The main caverns are apparently only one of over a hundred caves that have been discovered so far in Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Discovery and mapping of caves continues. There is more to the park than the caverns themselves – as amazing as they are – and in the next blog post I’ll feature some of what I observed while backpacking into the park’s wilderness.

This large column has been named "Rock of Ages".

Other types of formations in the caverns. At right is a formation termed "popcorn", although this type more reminds me of a coral reef.

Formations reflected in the water at "Mirror Lake".

Another pool with formations. The faint green color is due to algae, which apparently will grow eventually hundreds of feet below ground if a dim light source is available.

An area termed the "Boneyard" by earlier explorers.

A ladder from earlier exploration in the 1920s (left) and a view of Lower Cave from the main caverns (right).

More stalactites.

Perhaps some 800 feet directly below the Visitor's Center there is almost an underground city where there are bathrooms, vendors and this mail drop. Elevators lead to the surface. Though I walked in via the natural entrance gradually descending into the caves, I took an elevator up (here photographed at 250 ft below ground).

Brilliant White Sands

White Sands National Monument, New Mexico.

White Sands National Monument in southern New Mexico was stunning and exceeded my expectations. It will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of my trip through the Southwest this spring, made so in large measure because I was able to camp in the backcountry overnight.

The dunes are a brilliant white color due to being composed of gypsum (selenite) sand. They are remarkably cool to the touch, which is counter-intuitive for anyone who has spent time on a sandy beach in the warm sun. Because the sand was so cool and soft I was able to do some hiking in bare feet. The mineral composition of the sand (selenite is a hydrated mineral) and the relatively high water table in the dunes apparently help keep it cool.

The dunes are extensive, covering close to 300 square miles in a valley east of the San Andreas Mountains in southern New Mexico. A US military missile testing range is the Monument’s neighbor on three of its four sides, and sometimes the Monument closes because of missile activity.

Like coastal beach dunes, some of the gypsum dunes at White Sands had a modest cover of vegetation, while others were barren. Plants were more apt to be found in flat interdune areas that may provide longer-term stability from the vagaries of shifting sand. The most attractive flowering plant was sand verbena, with hemispherical clusters of light purple flowers. The only animal life I really saw was two species of beetles, though the Park Service made a point to illustrate that populations of animals (mammals, reptiles) inhabiting the dunes had adapted to become lighter in color than nearby populations which live in habitats with darker substrates.

Some dune vegetation, including a Yucca (or similar species), small trees that may be cottonwoods (Populus), and purple-flowered sand verbena.

 

Dune beetles.

Sunset over the dunes.

White Sands is a photographer’s dream, at least for the style of photography I am interested in. From the macro to landscape scales there were alluring subjects, curves, and shadows all around. I found the most compelling time for photography to be perhaps an hour or two before sunset and an hour or two after sunrise. During this period when the sun was low on the horizon, it cast beautiful shadows over the dunes and seemed to provide an ideal level of contrast. The white sand in the shadows in the early morning often appeared purple to me.

One feature of the dunes that I found particularly attractive was the parallel ripples, typically no more than a few centimeters in height over the dune surface. There are analogous undulations in coastal sand caused by water, and the ripples in the middle of this desert brought to mind the fact that air (wind) is like a fluid, acting to shape the substrate below it by its direction and strength of flow.

White Sands is certainly a park I would visit again, hopefully in the same fashion as this trip: sleeping under the moon and stars in a dunefield of sublime beauty.

Animal tracks.

Different ripple patterns on the surface of the dunes.

Shadows cast at a dune crest.

An interdune area with rougher texture, I suppose composed of selenite crystals.

Looking south over the dune field with the early morning sun casting shadows to the west.

My campsite and hiking barefoot in the dunes.

Quitobaquito

Along the US-Mexico border, about 15 miles west of the border crossing between Lukeville, Arizona and Sonoyta, Mexico is the small oasis of Quitobaquito in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. The shortest route to the site is a dirt road that, for much of its length, parallels the international border. In fact, in places it is no more than 20 meters from the metal fence on the US side, a barrier less formidable than many backyard fences. The saguaros and desert scrub take no notice of the artificial line in the sand so important to humans.

At Quitobaquito, perhaps a half kilometer north of the border, a tiny creeklet finds its origin in a spring that itself seems to just emerge from the base of a small non-descript slope of dry Sonoran Desert soil. The Park Service has lined the creeklet with concrete, no doubt to preserve the integrity of the waterway, because so minute is the flow that it seems like the desert dust could consume the trickle of water with no effort. As I walked along the creeklet, looking for its source, I could see signs of researcher presence – a short submerged PVC tube that I’m guessing houses a temperature sensor or other device, and some red plates underwater about which I cannot surmise their purpose.

Arriving at Quitobaquito (left) and some saguaro cacti near the oasis (right).

The creeklet ends in a rather large shallow pond to the south which is encircled by a narrow but dense band of sedges (just like Schoenoplectus americanus of west coast wetlands, though I’m not positive it is the same species). It looked like there was widgeon grass (Ruppia) in the water. The pond and creeklet were lined with colorful flowering species that I had not seen elsewhere in the Monument.

The pond at Quitobaquito. Sedges line the edge of the pond.

Why the effort to protect flow in the creeklet? This little oasis is home to an endangered fish species, the Quitobaquito pupfish (Cyprinodon eremus). I saw quite a few fish in the creeklet that led to the pond. The species is dimorphic in color – larger blue fish are reproductively mature males and females and immature males are smaller and light grey-brown, blending in well with the substrate. Incredibly these pupfish can tolerate high salinity, very high temperatures, and low oxygen conditions. The fish I observed were skittish and apparently territorial, chasing one another in short bursts of activity.

Quitobaquito pupfish. A arrow points to the female or immature male at left since these fish
blend in much better with the mud than the blue reproductive males.

Flowering plants near the pond: Heliotropium curassavicum (left) and Funastrum cynanchoides (right).

References

Reistad, A. 2012. Pupfish. In: National border, national park: A history of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, at: https://organpipehistory.com/orpi-a-z/pupfish/

Spellenberg R. 2012. Sonoran Desert Wildflowers. 2^nd ed. Falcon Guides, Guiford, MT.

Flowering plants near the creeklet: Anemopsis californica (left) and unknown pink-flowered species (right).

Arizona cacti

Heading east from San Diego I descended into the hot Imperial Valley and the Sonoran Desert. Ocotillos appeared signaling entry into this desert province. After a relatively cool spring in northern California, I wasn’t quite ready to be thrust into summer temperatures. My first major destination was Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, just north of the Arizona-Mexico border. It lies right in the heart of the Sonoran Desert.

Organ Pipe and other cacti at Alamo Canyon.

Night sky at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

I first visited Organ Pipe 20 years ago, when with a class of UC Santa Cruz students we descended on northern Mexico to study the ecology of the Gulf of California. The road to Sonoyta, Mexico passes bisects the monument. I arrived after dark, and turned up a dirt road to a small campsite at the head of Alamo Canyon. It was a warm evening. I stayed up for some time photographing landscapes dominated by Saguaro cacti. A half moon shone brightly in the sky above but was gone by 4 AM when I awoke again to photograph stars and the Milky Way.

With the new day, the diversity of cacti was evident from the start. Saguaros were very common, and organ pipe cacti became more common as I made my way up the valley for a morning hike. There were menacing cholla cacti, with their beautiful golden spines covering plants like a blanket. I also recognized the prickly pear cactus, Opuntia.

The organ pipe cactus (Stenocereus thurberi) is a collection of rather large stems, emerging from a common base. The namesake of the monument, the species is more common in Mexico than in the US and has a limited presence here due to its intolerance of frost. Flowers apparently only open during the night and are primary pollinated by bats.

Saguaros (Carnegiea gigantea) were actually very common at Organ Pipe Cactus NM, growing in most regions of the monument that I observed. However, there is a whole national park named in honor of this species, and that was my next destination. Bisected by the city of Tuscon, Saguaro National Park comprises two units east and west of the city. I briefly visited some of both, catching the sunset at the west unit and doing some morning hiking at the east unit.

Saguaro cacti. Left: spines (which are actually modified leaves on cacti) on a plant at Saguaro NP. Right: An open flower on a plant at Organ Pipe Cactus NM.

The morning of my hike started off warm. I began at a trailhead at Loma Verde and hiked about 2 miles into the Saguaro Wilderness along the Squeeze Pen and Carillo trails. Saguaro, barrel cacti, and Opuntia were common. Mesquite, palo verde (literally, “green stick”), and other trees and shrubs were also abundant in the area. At Wildhorse Canyon I found pools of water remaining in a wash.

Flowering cholla cacti at Saguaro NP. At left is the pencil cholla, Cylindropuntia arbuscula.

Though not a cactus, ocotillos were common at both Organ Pipe Cactus and Saguaro NP and were frequently in bloom, their bright red flowers adding color to the landscape. At Saguaro I saw many ocotillos with leaves (some green, some senescing), a sight that may not be particularly common since these plants readily shed their leaves during times when water is scarce. It is a true deciduous desert species.

Ocotillos. Left: With leaves at Saguaro NP. Right: Hummingbird visiting flowers at Organ Pipe Cactus NM.

Wildlife was fairly common at both of these desert parks. I saw coyotes (Organ Pipe), a Gila Monster (Saguaro), a hummingbird (Organ Pipe) and other birds, a deer (Saguaro), Desert pupfish (Organ Pipe), and lots of lizards (both parks).

Barrel cactus, Ferrocactus, at Organ Pipe Cactus NM.

Chainfruit cholla cactus, Cylindropuntia fulgida, at Organ Pipe Cactus NM.

An organ pipe cactus near the US/Mexico border that is half skeleton at this point.

Prickly pear, barrel cactus, and saguaros at Saguaro NP.

Sunset with Saguaro cacti and ocotillo at Saguaro NP.